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Launched last night; SPUNTINO: Comfort Food (New York Style)

By vikkichowney on September 15, 2015

Last night I went to the launch of Russell Norman’s new book; SPUNTINO: Comfort Food (New York Style), out with Bloomsbury this week.

A follow up to the Polpo founder’s first offering – A Venetian Cookbook (Of Sorts) – this time he celebrates the world that gave birth to his Soho-based love letter to New York.

In inimitable style, we spilled on to the streets to listen to the blues musicians the Polpo team discovered busking across the other side of London – and were handed umbrellas bought that same afternoon to avoid the rain.

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From the cover; “Hidden behind rust-coloured frontage in the bustling heart of London’s Soho, Spuntino is the epitome of New York’s vibrant restaurant scene. After bringing the bàcari of Venice to the backstreets of the British capital at his critically acclaimed restaurant POLPO, Russell Norman scoured the scruffiest and quirkiest boroughs of the Big Apple to find authentic inspiration for an urban, machine-age diner. Since its smash-hit opening in 2011, the restaurant has delivered big bold flavours with a dose of swagger to the crowds who flock to its pewter-topped bar.

Spuntino will take you on culinary adventure from London to New York and back, bringing the best of American cuisine to your kitchen. The 120 recipes include zingy salads, juicy sliders, oozing pizzette, boozy desserts and prohibition-era cocktails. You’ll get a glimpse of New York foodie heaven as Russell maps out his walks through the city’s cultural hubs and quirky neighbourhoods such as East Village and Williamsburg, discovering family-run delis, brasseries, street traders, sweet shops and liquor bars.

With radiant photography by Jenny Zarins capturing New York’s visceral grittiness, Spuntino pays homage to the energy, dynamism and extraordinary cuisine that the world’s greatest melting pot has inspired.”

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We were treated to Sweet Manhattans and ‘Comfort Food’ branded beers, while feasting on classics from the restaurant’s history; Zucchini and Feta sliders, plus the famous Pulled Pork and Pickled Apple version, Eggplant chips with Fennel yoghurt, and my favourite, the Wild Mushroom and Taleggio pizzetta. Don’t tell the Italians, but it was better than the ones I had in Rome last week.

DSC00001 DSC00011 DSC00012A huge congratulations to Russell. The book is an absolute treat; with a gorgeous cover (not to mention the unusual spine), packed full of fabulous photography and authentic New York foods that will make a rainy autumn in Britain seem just that little bit more appealing.

Buy SPUNTINO; Comfort Food (New York Style) on Amazon now.

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Posted in Boudicca Foods | Tagged Comfort Food, New York, Polpo, Russell Norman, Spuntino | Leave a response

The 5 best brunch spots in Notting Hill

By vikkichowney on September 13, 2015

Since I moved to Notting Hill last year, I’ve been on a quest to sort the good from the bad in terms of brunch spots around the area. While the popularity of New York style ‘brunch’ has been growing for years in the UK, in this pocket of West London, it’s practically an institution.

There are really, really wonderful spots, but there are many more poor ones. Unfortunately, many of the best-known aren’t really up to scratch but get away with it because of pretty interiors and the fact that they get so many single-visits from poor tourists *sad face*. There are a few big names missing from the list below (Daylesford, Bumpkin, Farm Girl, 202, Snaps & Rye, Raoul’s) for this very reason. New Tom’s Kitchen would have made the list, but it was only a 12 month pop-up that’s now closed.

While some say brunch originated in England in the late 1800s as a buffet-style meal with multiple courses (there are other theories about Catholics fasting before mass and then sitting down for a large midday meal), the term was most definitely first coined in Britain in 1895 to describe a Sunday meal for “Saturday-night carousers” in Guy Beringer’s article “Brunch: A Plea” in Hunter’s Weekly. That aside, it wasn’t made popular until the 1930s in the United States, and the influence of New York originated Eggs Benedict to ‘bagels and lox’ (smoked salmon) still reigns supreme today.

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Number 1. Granger & Co

But it’s not just the Americans you have to thank for good brunch in Notting Hill, and that’s why Granger gets first mention. It has to really. Every Bill Granger restaurant reflects the spirit they like to think of as ‘Australian’: sunny, easy-going and generous. Bill opened his first restaurant in Sydney’s Darlinghurst at the age of 24. It soon became famous for the best scrambled eggs and hotcakes in town, served at the now much-copied communal table, where locals and travellers, families and celebrities thrived on the unique atmosphere. Twenty years later, this approach to dining has become truly global, from Seoul to Honolulu and Tokyo. However, this makes the list with a giant caveat; yes, the food at this place *is* as good as they say, but there’s a 20-person line outside every Saturday and Sunday, for almost the entire day. So get ready to wait. Or else, you can reserve at the Granger & Co in Clerkenwell, so maybe take a trip over there.

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Order the: FAMOUS Ricotta hotcakes, banana & honeycomb butter for £11.80, my favourite; Toasted rye, avocado, lime & coriander for £6.75, or the ‘Full Aussie’ (their equally-famous scrambled eggs, sourdough toast, bacon, cumin roast tomato, miso chestnut mushrooms and chipolatas) at just £13.80

Opens at: Notting Hill branch opens at 7am on a Saturday, 8am on a Sunday. Breakfast until noon.

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Number 2: Goode & Wright

My personal favourite. Try to get there early or book, and aim to get served by Alex (front of house man and co-owner). It sits at the unassuming end of Portobello, where the market stalls turn from food into fabrics and clothing, just before the Westway. With an approach to modern British cuisine similar to ours at Boudicca, they favour locally produced goods, cooked fantastically, always fresh, and at really decent prices. Opened in 2011 by head chef Finlay Logan, it’s recently undergone a bit of a revamp – and the place is intimate, comfortable, and has a great atmosphere to it.
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Order the: Eggs! My full review of their Hansen & Lydersen smoked salmon Eggs Royal above is here, which is like HEAVEN at just £8.00, or the Smashed avocado toasted spelt seed bread £5 (which is the header for this post) for £5.00. If you’re going later, and doing full ‘brunch’, you absolutely must, must, must, MUST have the Cheesy Fries. Not the chunky chips, the fries (above), which come with truffle mayo and cannot be beaten, £4.50.

Opens at: 9am on a Saturday, 10am on a Sunday. Brunch all day Sunday, until ‘the evening’ on Saturday (try your luck and they’ll probably accommodate).

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3. Electric Diner

One of two of the Soho House Group’s eateries on this list, because they just know how to do things right. The first, nestled next to one of the oldest cinemas in London and downstairs from the Electric House, is a stedfast member of the Notting Hill brunch set. Electric Diner serves a French-American menu with a selection of items from the bakery and ALL THE EGGS. It’s a small, but well-formed selection. Make sure you reserve in advance, because it’ll be very busy, which makes for a buzzy experience while you’re inside and is fun if you’re in the mood. It’s also worth the wait, especially with Portobello to wander around. If you’re on you’re own, they can fit you in at the bar, which is perfect for dining solo.

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Order the: Eggs Benedict at £9.00, Diner Bloody Mary (the best in town according to many) also at £9.00 or Eggs any style (go scrambled) at £5.00 with a side of smoked salmon for £4.00.

Opens at: 8am on Saturday and Sunday, switches to the all-day menu at noon.

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4. Egg Break

The second Soho House Group offering, and my personal favourite of the two. Eggs all day, every day! The Soho House team has taken over an old Thai place on Uxbridge Road in partnership with Ennismore, the people behind The Hoxton group of hotels, and not for the first time – as seen by Hubbard & Bell and Chicken Shop in the Holborn Hoxton Hotel. Egg Break is a small, but well organised space with two floors, just behind Notting Hill Gate tube. Like the Electric, it’s busy, so try to book in advance now that it’s been open for a few months and word has spread!

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Order the: Broken eggs with chorizo, roast tomato, scamorza and spring onion for £7.00, or the Avocado toast with poached eggs for £6.00.

Opens at: 8am every day (ignore the website). Eggs all day, but an extended food menu from noon.

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5. Wildflower Cafe

Last but by NO means least, Wildflower. This place won ‘Best Cafe or Coffee Shop’ in the Time Out Love London Awards 2014, which is voted for by the public. It’s no surprise to me; a little out the way, and full of free range, fresh, organic produce – it’s a little hidden gem. Plus because they’re a florist as well, you’ll be served edible flowers with anything ordered! They serve a delicious menu of egg favourites, as well as Turkish style Shakshuka and a rather amazing Huevos Rancheros.

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Order the: Huevos Rancheros for £9.50, Three Egg Omelette with ham, cheese or mushroom for £8.50 or Homemade Wildflower Granola with Greek yoghurt and homemade fruit compote at £5.00.

Opens at: 10am on a Saturday, noon on a Sunday. Brunch served from 11am to 4pm Saturday, noon until 4pm on Sunday.

Granger pancakes pic via Munchmyway, fries via the Londoner, Diner Eggs Benedict via Hollow Legs, Egg Break outdoors via The Lifestyle Diaries, Wildflower pic via Dipsdines.

Posted in Boudicca Foods | Tagged brunch, egg break, electric diner, goode & wright, granger & co, london, notting hill, wildflower cafe | 3 Responses

Peter’s Yard crispbreads; the best of Swedish baking, in Britain

By vikkichowney on September 11, 2015

When I was growing up, Saturdays during the summer would be spent doing one of two things; preparing a BBQ, or having copious amounts of cheese & wine outside until it’s dark and everyone’s wrapped up in coats but unwilling to move inside.

Because of the latter; I’ve got quite an adventurous taste for crackers (if you can imagine such a thing). The only ones I really can’t get my palate around are the charcoal ones intended for goats cheese; because quite frankly, I find they end up ruining things.

But anyway. Because I still love spending time with family or friends doing the very same thing, I was very excited to find that Peter’s Yard’s Original Artisan Crispbread had been awarded three stars and also named as one of Britain’s Top 50 Foods out of 10,000 entries into this year’s Great Taste awards. You’ll have noticed I’m on a bit of a quest to try as many of them as I can.

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Peter’s Yard is a well-known British company, famed for bringing Swedish style crispbread to the UK. The story for me represents exactly why the British food industry is so exciting right now; a mixture of influences and tastes from other places around the world, and a wonderful sense of collaboration to boot.

When founders Ian and Wendy set out on a mission to discover the best Swedish bakeries and bring some of their favourite bread, cakes and biscuits back to the UK, they visited Peter Ljunquist’s Swedish bakery, Peter’s Yard. There they drank coffee, chatted to Peter and enjoyed “fika”. They also discovered the most delicious crispbread (knäckebröd) they had ever eaten. It was simply too good to remain confined to one small bakery, so they decided to work with Peter and another friend John, to make this authentically Swedish, delicious crispbread available across the UK.

The team used naturally fermenting sourdough, Shipton Mill organic flour and the very best, natural ingredients. Recommendations spread by word of mouth and they grew fast, starting out making just 50 kg of crispbread a week (that’s not even enough to fill one small bakery van), they now produce fifty times that much in order to keep up with the growing demand.

As well as the traditional, original crispbread, the lovely people at Splat Marketing also sent me Peter’s Yards’ two flavoured crispbreads: a Seeded Wholegrain with whole oat groats, buckwheat, roasted sunflower seeds and linseeds and a Spelt & Fig Crispbread made with Spelt flour and sweet fig pieces.

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We ate these with cheese; a really strong cheddar and a goats cheese. The classic, original crispbread is absolutely great. It would go with any type of cheese; but I really loved it with the cheddar. The other two are more malty, and better suited for a blue, and a hard cheese like parmesan. I can also see these last two working SUPER well with a pate; particularly a smoked mackerel one with some freshly cracked black pepper.

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If you’re looking for something a little more adventurous; Peter’s Yard has teamed up with Great British Chefs to create a series of recipe ideas and serving suggestions for his crispbreads, featuring Phil Fanning, owner and executive chef at Michelin-starred Paris House and Anna Hansen MBE of The Modern Pantry.

This crab canapé recipe below is tricky to make, but looks STUNNING. Phil says the crispbread is actually a really good vehicle for the malt element and it enhances the “brown bread” feel he’s trying to achieve with it. Anna’s beetroot and liquorice cured salmon with winter slaw is a little more achievable, and looks equally gorgeous.
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The Peter’s Yard range is available at food halls, speciality food stores and delicatessens, or online here. A selection of packs are also available at Waitrose and Ocado: Original Crispbreads 105g and 180g (£2.95 and £3.49 respectively), Spelt & Fig (100g £2.95) and Seeded Wholegrain (105g £2.95). You can also go and visit the original ‘Peter’ at one of his bakeries; based in Edinburgh and found here.

Posted in Boudicca Foods | Tagged anna hansen, crackers, crispbread, great british chefs, modern pantry, multi-cultural, paris house, peter's yard, phil fanning, swedish | Leave a response

Pilton Somerset-keeved Cider

By vikkichowney on September 9, 2015

Remember when I said that I didn’t drink cider often? Twice in a month is a real rarity. But when it’s this good, I’m always keen 🙂

Martin from Pilton was kind enough to send me a bottle of their award-winning cider, which is a whole juice sparkling cider made by the old English method of keeving. Apples are sourced for low nutrient orchards (which changes their flavour profile) in the Somserset parish of Pilton, and the juice is slowly fermented with wild yeasts.

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I’ll admit, I had no idea what keeving is before tasting this bad boy. It’s an *amazing* cider (and look at that gorgeous bottle!); medium dry and crisp, but not too sweet, and the perfect level of bubbles. I of course wanted to know how it was made, which Pilton details perfectly on their website.

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“Keeving is a method of cider-making practised in England as far back as the mid 1600′s but long since replaced here by large-scale factory techniques.  The process has survived in France, however, due to their more stringent rules on cider manufacture.

Fully ripe, bittersweet cider apples are collected and milled as usual but the pulp is left to stand for 24 hours.  This maceration period allows the pulp to oxidise and for pectins to be released from the cell walls. The pulp is then pressed to give a thick, dark juice; rich in flavour.”
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After a few days, a pectin gel, called the chapeau brun in France, floats to the surface and clear juice can be extracted from below.  The gel is discarded along with most of the actively fermenting yeast and the nutrients it needs to fully ferment the apple sugars into alcohol. The result is an only-partially-fermented cider that retains much of its refreshing apple flavour and soft taste – which means that it tastes more juicy than your average.

We had this as an aperitif before lunch, and it was perfect. Pilton is available in three bottle sizes; 75cl standard bottle, 150cl magnum and 37.5cl half bottle, and can be found at specialist shops and online from this site.DSC00342

Posted in Boudicca Foods | Tagged apples, drinks, keeving, pilton cider | Leave a response

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