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Hansen & Lydersen smoked salmon

By vikkichowney on June 14, 2015

Sunday. The day of brunch.

I’ve been living in Notting Hill for about a year now, and have spent a decent chunk of that time exploring the multitude of brunch spots in the area. While Granger really is as amazing as they say (albeit ridiculously busy), about a month ago, we truly struck gold.

Goode & Wright sits at the unassuming end of Portobello, where the market stalls turn from food into fabrics and clothing, just before the Westway.

With an approach to modern British cuisine similar to ours at Boudicca, they favour locally produced goods, cooked fantastically, always fresh, and at really decent prices. Opened in 2011 by head chef Finlay Logan, it’s recently undergone a bit of a revamp and is now also fronted by Alex Herb (a former chef himself). The place is intimate, comfortable, and has a great atmosphere to it.

 

5509765-3While my benchmark dish is usually avocado on toast (so simple, so easy to mess up), what I’m here to show you today is their Eggs Royal. I’ve never quite seen the dish presented in the way G&W do. They take the muffin (which I suspect is baked onsite, but don’t quote me), ‘core’ it, then put the poached egg inside, top with spinach/ham/salmon, add sauce, and place the removed bit of muffin – toasted – back on top. It’s cute, original, and means that when you cut in to it, you’ve got a perfect distribution of yolk to bread. It’s also only £8, which is insanely good value.

But because we’re all about championing the producers here at Boudicca, let’s focus on that salmon for a second. Oh my, the salmon.

I’ve had this as a side with the aforementioned avocado. Just yesterday in fact (and yes, I did go to Goode & Wright two days in a row – it’s *that* nice). Rather than a measly, thin slick of fish, this comes in meatier, thicker slices, which means you get far better flavour and texture.

G&W use Hansen & Lydersen salmon, which is an utterly wonderful company based in North London, who smoke the fish *to order* (which means it’s never frozen, vacuum packed or kept in plastic) in a traditional Norwegian way in an old brick building in Stoke Newington that used to house painting works. It’s because of this that you get the great texture, the fish isn’t destroyed by being frozen and defrosted.

Hansen & Lydersen smoked salmon, which won’t even need an introduction to many of you, is still made from a family recipe that was devised in 1923 by fishmonger Lyder-Nilsen Lydersen.


 It uses a subtle mixture of juniper and beech woods, and is now created in the same way it always has been by the fourth generation of the family.

They source the salmon from a sustainable farm between the Norwegian Sea and the North Atlantic, and prepare it less than 48 hours after it has been fished. The preparation means hand-filleting and hand-salting, then hanging and slowly cold-smoking it in the brick kiln of the smokehouse where it moves in the wind for 12 hours.

How cool is that? You can ever VISIT the smokehouse to see a live version of the video above, just email sue@hansen-lydersen.com

Buy online via the Hansen & Lydersen website.

Posted in Fish | Tagged eggs royal, goode & wright, hansen & lydersen, notting hill, portobello road, smoked salmon | Leave a response

It starts with strawberries

By vikkichowney on June 13, 2015

This story starts with strawberries. In fact, all of my stories do, in a way.

Back where I grew up (in Sandhurst, Berkshire) there’s a PYO (pick your own) farm about 10 minutes drive from my Mum’s house called Grays.

While it’s grown into an award-winning fruit and vegetable producer, my Mum remembers the really early days, as she started going there when it opened – and carried on over the next decade until she became pregnant with me. Every summer since, it’s been a ritual that we’d go, pick strawberries, raspberries, dig up potatoes, pick marrows and beans, and talk for hours.

Going to Grays has always been a totally blissful bit of escapism for me. Everything from the giant strawberry installed on the road by the entrance, to the traditional cardboard picking baskets, and the tyre swing that I used to LOVE as a kid (and is still entertaining a whole new load of little ones today), all added to the joy of it.

The farm is now now by the second and third generations of Grays, and Mum still remembers Donald Gray, who opened the farm in 1973, talking about the best picking spots every time she went in. His son still does the same thing, driving around the site in an old white pickup, helping people work out the best rows to walk to to get the best picking.

Sadly, I found out at the beginning of this summer that the farm had been sold to Wokingham Borough Council, so Mum and I made several plans to go and make the most of our last year visiting – which would be our 30th summer in a row. On the *very first* day of picking for the 2015 season, we were there, raring to go.

We arrived, and a wave of nostalgia hit me square in the face as I walked into the barn – which houses the cashier tills, pre-picked punnets of fruit and vegetables, ice cream (I had my first ever Twister at Grays; lifechanging!) and homemade jams, pickles & sauces. I always smile at the tiny table full of bottles of orange and lemon squash for the kids to have a drink, because it’s such a perfectly simple representation of how generous the family who run the place are.

While picking up our baskets, we discovered that even though they had sold, the council wanted them to remain open for a few more years to come. Exciting news for us, but tinged with a little bit of sadness, since the Grays told us that since the local papers had printed that they were due to be sold, everyone has assumed they were closed – and business was down.

They asked us to tell our friends, which we promised to do – and we went out to the fields.

Since 2015 hasn’t been our warmest yet, those little red beauties were a little difficult to find, so we spent a few hours in the fields digging through the plants to find the ones that were brightest reds, but small enough to still be tasty and sweet. As we picked, I thought a bit more about the Grays’ problem. It’s not a lack of people knowing about the fact that they exist necessarily, it’s just an awareness of what the latest news is, or where to find that online.

I’d been sat staring at a jar of Garner’s picked onions the week before, having some kind of food epiphany. Not about pickled onions per se, I’ve always had a ‘Garner’s or nothing’ rule when it comes to that, but after years of trying to work out what I loved most about food (cooking it? reviewing places to go? baking?), it’s really very simple. I love finding great things, and sharing them with people that I think will like them too.

Mum and I turned our strawberries into some jam that weekend, using a less than traditional recipe from David Lebovitz, which uses less sugar to make it more fruity and calls for lemon to add a bit of zing. We used some HUGE sicilian lemons, and it ended up working a treat – but is was tough! It took ages, and using look and feel to assess whether it was ready is tricky to master. There’s lots of trial and error. I admire those who pay so much care and attention to the process. It’s a simple recipe, but it needs to be done right.

And so, I’ve made Boudicca Foods to start talking about all of awesome producers of classic British foods I love and will discover; what they do, where to buy them, and how they make their stuff so incredibly tasty. It starts with strawberries, but who know where I’ll end up…

More on visiting Grays Farm here. More info on Garner’s pickled onions here, buy them from Ocado here and DON’T mix them up with the pickled shallots; definitely not the same thing

Posted in Boudicca Foods | Tagged Garner's, Grays Farm, Jam, pick your own, Pickled onions, PYO, Strawberry Jam, Twister | Leave a response

A quick writing round-up

By vikkichowney on February 10, 2015

Some words from me, across the Internet…

A look at the Tories’ Facebook bill, and why it’s so weird, over on Holmes Report

I also did a Q&A with the PerformanceIn team, ahead of judging the Performance Marketing Awards 2015 – as well as wrote the content marketing segments for the PerformanceIn Performance Marketing Guide for 2015

A summary of CES trends from 2015, on my H+K blog, plus a piece on the epic rise of WeChat – and another on the changing role of the PR person as facilitator

Happy reading!

Posted in PR & Marketing | Tagged CES, H+K, holmes report, performancein, wechat, writing | Leave a response

Checking in, and reviewing Lean In

By vikkichowney on January 19, 2015

Amusingly, I still have two drafts that I started in late 2013. My review of Sheryl Sanberg’s Lean In: Women, Work and the Will to Lead, is one of them.

I actually read the book and wrote the review for Marketing, and it formed part of their recommended books feature for Christmas. However, seeing as I still stand by the whole idea of getting stuck in (and the benefit of saying ‘yes’ more), I thought I’d dig out my review and post it here as well.

Happy 2015 🙂

—

You could be forgiven for having heard of Lean In, but not actually knowing what the book is about. If Sheryl Sandberg weren’t chief operating officer of Facebook, would there have been such a furore? Possibly not.

There’s a lot of confusion about what “leaning in” actually is, and why it’s better or no different from other approaches for getting more women to the top.

As I understand it, “leaning in” simply means getting more involved. Obviously there’s rather more to it besides, but that seems to be the gist. While I recognise that taking advice on how to “break through glass ceilings” may be hard to hear from a Harvard graduate worth $400m, I do feel that the message of Sandberg’s book has suffered because of her somewhat controversial profile.

The idea of “leaning in” stands up to a point. I support the “fake it till you feel it” approach, plus the encouragement to get involved – but at the same time, I also subscribe to BBH legend Cindy Gallop’s approach. There are similarities in their views, largely centring on the need to put yourself forward and fight inner fear of failing, but Gallop suggests that we can redesign working models rather than align with them.

Reading between the lines, Lean In seems to suggest that you can play by the rules of the boys’ club to get to a senior level and then effect change from within. Is this the wrong thing to do? I don’t know. But do we even need to decide? The whole “you have to be in it to win it” mentality resonates with me, and that seems to be the most important thing.

Posted in PR & Marketing | Tagged book, lean in, marketing, marketing magazine, review, sheryl sandberg | Leave a response

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